Dec. 15 : Taj Mahal and onwards

Thursday, December 15 :: Bharatpur, India :: 70km / 300 total

Up very early to see the Taj Mahal. I had to "break out" of the guesthouse compound (the staff were asleep) using the flash on my cellphone to navigate through the bushes and over the fence. It was very cold, I could see my breath, maybe around 6C. At 6 a.m. the gates for the Taj opened, and in I went. There couldn't have been more than 5 other tourists there this early, since the Sun had not risen yet and the tour bus drivers are grouchy in the morning. The touts were also asleep, only 1 or 2 to have to politely decline.

But the Taj was there, emerging through the mist and half-light. The most beautiful manmade sight I've ever seen (and I've seen more than a few of the famous ones). I honestly couldn't believe it and was caught completely unaware. Now, I'm not one to be moved by... much... (as you all know), but I was swept away. Really, I hadn't been looking forward to seeing the Taj that much - all the corny pictures that you see of it, all the touts, and the general dirtiness of India had dulled my anticipation. I sat at the classic viewing spot, looking straight down/over the long and narrow reflecting pool, just staring at it. It is perfect. There is no other way I can describe it.

I wandered through the grounds, up to and inside the Taj itself, as it slowly came to light. It was quiet, there were no voices, only the faint background din of a city slowly coming to life. Other than a few silent shadowy security guards and staff, I was the only one on and around the Taj. A magical half hour, just me and this incredible work of architecture. Unbelievable. I had woken up bracing myself for touts and hassle, what I got was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.

By the time the Sun was lighting up the tops of nearby buildings, around 7 a.m., the surreal spell was over. Walking away from the Taj back along the pool I was faced with hordes of tourists, talking loudly, clicking their cameras, flashes everywhere, disturbing the peace, serenity, and sorrow that makes the Taj what it is. But they missed it. They were too late. The Taj is not about a picture in a photo album, Look Where I Was. It'll have to be my (and your) little secret. If you ever go to India, do NOT miss the Taj Mahal, enter at 6 a.m. because by 7 its gone.

After some great food I rode out into the maelstrom of urban India. Agra is a city of 600,000 and I think they were all travelling the same route out of town that I was today. 15km into my ride the city disappeared, thankfully, and rural India was there to greet me. A beautiful road, less-insane traffic (I only had to ride myself off the road once), clean air. I rode to a nearby World Heritage Site, Fatepuri Sikri, but there wasn't much of the ancient buildings left, and I was still reeling from the Taj, so I didn't hang around for long. Finally to Bharatpur, in the State of Rajasthan, my home State for the next 1-2 weeks. Nothing of much interest here, but I stopped early to eat eat eat and get ready for a long 180km to Jaipur tomorrow - I'll likely have a headwind, so may not make it all the way. Today I've had GREAT food, including a dal makhani that is among the best Indian food I've ever had. Hmmm I think another plate of that will do just nicely, tonight.