Jan. 28 - Bardibas, Nepal

Friday, January 28 :: Bardibas, Nepal :: 69km today / 2984km total

Well, today I completely fell apart. I felt terribly weak as I rolled out of Lahan, and never rebounded. At the 30km mark, YES the 30km mark, I knew I wasn't going anywhere today. I rode along VERY slowly, absolutely wasted, no energy at all. I started looking for lodging at 50km, and found it at 69km in Bardibas. After a shower I forced down 10 samosas, went to sleep, woke up, forced down 5 more, plus a plate of thali (rice and veg curry). Along with about 2 litres of Coca-Cola. Not great food, but I was desperate for calories of any kind. Tangerines, while being a mainstay for me and fantasic when I'm feeling sick, just don't cut it. I've been coughing a lot, and feel my immune system is probably pretty weak at the moment.

Now in Nepal long enough to comment on it, and contrasts with India, and the civil war. Things are definitely tense here. Businesses close early, and by 8 p.m. the streets are empty. I don't feel threatened at all, but I know I have to be wary and keep my ear to the ground. Nepalis are quite interested in talking about the Maoist situation, but I won't say anything commital either way to them, you never know who is listening. There are very frequent police/army checkpoints along the road, which often cause havoc for motorized traffic, but I sail right through, past the lineup of cars and trucks, relatively unimpeded. No one is mistaking me for a Maoist rebel. Definitely the most dangerous places to be are near the army outposts, since this is where the Maoists stage their attacks. I never stop near these places. India gets a point in terms of peace with itself and security - nowhere in India is tense that I have been (although Kashmir would be).

Nepalis, like the Darjeeling-ites, are lower key than the Indians and women seem to play a more independent, prominent role in society here. The little girls seem happier, more cheerful, and more respected here than in India - they tend to be clothed as well as their brothers (in India I saw many boys in clean, new-ish clothes while their sisters wore, essentially, rags). One point for the Nepalis. Nepali food is not as good - one point for the Indians. Make that two points - I'm on a bike trip, I need good food! Nepalis do not piss and shit anywhere they please, like the Indians do, and their temples and bus stations do not reek of urine - even in 1 million+ Kathmandu. One point for the Nepalis. There is actually forest in Nepal, a lower population density, and frequent billboards promoting condom use. India could use such billboards every, say, 5 metres throughout the entire country (I didn't see a single contraception/family planning advertizement/promotion of any kind in India). One point for the Nepalis. The countryside in Nepal is quite beautiful in many places and not covered in garbage - the Nepalis seem to respect and care for their country much more than the Indians do. One point for Nepal. Both Indians and Nepali do this terrible, god-awful deep-hork-phlegm thing that seems unnecessary since only the men do it (if there was some sort of physical need to hack up phlegm, wouldn't women need to do it too?). Neutral on that count. I'm not going to add it all up, but I think you can tell that I'm enjoying Nepal a bit more than India.