Feb. 26 - Gilgit, Pakistan

Saturday, February 26 :: Gilgit, Pakistan :: 48km today / 5293km total

A relatively easy 48km to Gilgit - no switchbacks, no rockfalls, surprisingly good roads, occasional views of 7800m Rakaposhi. It was very chilly though, I was wearing all the heavy clothing I had: gloves, hat, etc. Even still my feet went numb from the cold, and I had to face the music that Gilgit may the end of my ride up the KKH. But the landscape was the most dramatic of the entire route, so vastly beautiful that it makes you want to weep with happiness to be alive and be among it, now in the "Throne Room of the Mountain Gods", as I've heard the Karakoram called... and experiencing it all from the best vantage point that exists.

As I passed the last police checkpoint before Gilgit there was a large roadsign, quite triumphant for me: 11km off a side road was Gilgit, less than 300km to China ahead. The words were in English, Arabic, and Chinese. I had ridden 540km up the KKH, a long, tough way. On the access road to Gilgit I was extremely happy, pumping the air with my fist, life was too good.

Gilgit is the penultimate town on the KKH, with an occasionally-used airstrip, lots of hotels, lots of food, lots of transport in and out, and lots of hot water in the bathroom. I found myself eating the local fare, though - its good and cheap. I stayed in a fantastic guesthouse, met the Japanese tourists again as well as an American and a Swiss. The local staff regaled us with stories of tourists past, including horrific murder tales of those who ventured doe-eyed into Afghanistan or who did very stupid things in rural Pakistan. There is nothing unsafe about most areas of Pakistan, for men and for women, as long as you understand and respect the culture - but that's the trick, isn't it. One story particularly highlighted the proper attitude: an Australian couple were being guided around Pakistan by the storyteller, and were having some difficulties with all the attention they were drawing - mostly the woman, of course. The guide suggested that she put on a burqa - the full head-to-toe covering that many to most Pakistani women wear (particularly in rural areas). She did, and her husband put on traditional clothing - and they became anonymous! No one looked at or bothered them - the burqa gave her freedom of movement . She loved her newfound mobility, and thanked the guide profusely for his help. Think what you will about the concept of the burqa, but understand that because the men here are so sexually... repressed, the burqa is a saving grace for women. Since I draw a lot of unwanted attention as well I briefly thought about the ramifications of wearing a burqa... but the sight of a burqa'd cyclist pounding up a climb, passing a truck, as funny as it is to me, would probably cause anger!