Jan . 3 : Rajapur - hell in the Ghats

Tuesday, January 3 :: Rajapur, India :: 117km today / 1550km total

Well, I knew today would be hilly, but had no idea the hell in store for me. It was a full day of brutal, unrelenting, switchbacking climbs and descents through India's Western Ghats (mountains that stretch down India's West Coast). The first 4km out of Chiplun was all uphill, having me dig far too deep, far too early in the day. Every descent was heartbreaking, as fun and furious as they were, because I knew that it meant more climbing ahead. Even the trucks were struggling, and at one point I was playing leapfrog for about 5km with 2 particular trucks; I was climbing with them, they would pass me on the short flats, and I would pass them on the screaming descents. It might sound fun, but it was painful, all day long. I must've looked like a complete mess to the people I was passing by; sweat dripping off of my face onto my bike and clothes, teeth gritted, struggling, struggling upwards.

The terrain was beautiful, when I had time to enjoy it, which wasn't often. The deep valleys were green, lush, and tropical. The summits were dry, barren, and dusty. At least the road surface was smooth, thank God. I consumed vast quantities of liquids, but little food. Finally, I limped into Rajapur, absolutely exhausted.

When I stop at a town that I know nothing about (i.e. not in my guidebook) I usually head for town centre, then figure out from there where I want to stay; I like having access to the market, and scouting out the restaurants. The road to the centre of Rajapur was a very steep 1km descent... with nothing of use at the bottom... no place to stay, no market. I had to retrace my steps, but there was no way I was riding back up that hill, exhausted as I was, so I walked it, pushing my bike along, quite unashamedly. After reaching the main road and checking into the only guesthouse in town I flopped down onto the bed, completely, utterly wiped out. There would be no clothes-washing or stretching tonight.